Philosophy Towards Decorative and Task Lighting
Overview:
In order to design a lighting package, it is critical to understand the goals and expectations of the end user(s) of the spaces to be lit. Flexibility and the ability to have a lighting arrangement evolve over time is also a key aspect of the design. Lastly, compromise in lightning design is not a bad thing, as long as the compromise is part of the holistic approach to the design.
Function:
The desired function(s) and priorities for a space need to be determined before a lighting scheme can be established. Also, the proportion and scale of a space needs to be taken into consideration – what works in a 9 foot high space, does not necessarily work in an 8 foot high space, or a cathedral space. How the lights impact the visual appearance of a ceiling is critically important factor in the design, location and type of fixtures that are to be used, and how the space is to be seen.
Goal:
The ultimate goal of a proper lighting design is that the space is well lit for its given function, and the light fixtures do not draw unnecessary attention to themselves, even when they are designed to be a feature in the space. If designed properly, the object or surface to be illuminated is the primary focus of the space, and the source of the illumination is meant to be downplayed or made inconsequential in the overall scheme of things.
Types:
There are 3 basic approaches to lighting types: Task, Decorative and Accent.
Task lighting is intended generally as a single purpose light source for a specific activity or need. Task lighting also generally suggests the highest level of light on a surface. Task lighting generally applies to desk areas, kitchen counters and other areas where surfaces need to be very brightly lit with a minimum amount of shadows.
Decorative lighting is the most expressive of all the lighting types, and also the most flexible in creating or sustaining an atmosphere in a space. In most cases, decorative lighting does not provide enough light in a space without additional supplemental light, either from additional decorative lighting or most commonly, in combination with task and accent lights.
Accent lighting is intended to either subtlety or aggressively highlight or accent objects and surfaces. The ability to manage how obviously an accent light expresses itself is managed through the style or type of lamping, wattage of the lamp and the dimming capacity of the lighting circuit. The source of accent lighting should be as discreet as possible, and focus all attention on the object or surface being illuminated. Accent lighting can be successfully combined with decorative lighting to provide proper levels of illumination in a space for each function of the space. Accent lighting can also be designed to function as the task lighting for a space.
Location:
How light is directed in a space has a tremendous impact on the success of the lighting design. Light is provided via direct, indirect, diffused and reflected methods. Task, decorative and accent lights can utilize aspects of each of these lighting methods.
Direct:
Recessed fixtures are the most obvious example of direct lighting and are generally very poor in providing good general illumination in a space. This is because the fixture is generally sending all of the light onto the surface opposite the light, and you are dependent on the reflectivity of that surface to bounce the light around the space. A room with only recessed lights will generally have a bright floor, and a dark ceiling punctured by hot points of light. The source of the light for the space is painfully obvious and overly bright in most instances. In general it is necessary to over light the room to get enough reflected light to make the space feel comfortably lit. Reducing the size (aperture) of the opening that the light is directed out of, moving the lamp as far from the aperture, the appearance of the reflector, and the trim ring at the ceiling can all be ways to reduce the overall visual impact of a recessed fixture. I generally take advantage of all 4 of these options to determine the best possible recessed light for a given space and function. Track heads are other examples of direct fixtures. The visual impact of the fixtures can be manipulated through the size and type of head and lamp.
Indirect:
Indirect fixtures are just that – they provide light by bouncing it off a primary surface to provide more generalized illumination on a second surface or surrounding area. Ceiling-hung up-lights that bounce light off the ceiling to light a roof are a good example. Sconces with shades are also examples of indirect lighting. In indirect lighting, the physical appearance of the fixture becomes part of the lighting design, and depending on the design, may also provide additional diffused light. I will often utilize silver bottom bulbs in fixtures where the bottom of lamp is exposed – this allows the indirect impact of the lamp to function, but decrease or eliminate the visual hot spot of light you get when you are looking at a bare bulb.
Diffused:
Diffused lighting is when the lamp is partially or completely obscured behind a transparent or translucent material. The diffusing of the light source allows the light to be more evenly distributed in all directions around the fixture, depending on the arrangement of the fixture, and to allow the use of higher wattage lamp(s) than an exposed lamp, so that adequate lighting levels are provided.
Reflected:
Reflected light is very similar to indirect lighting, where the primary lighted surface is generally used to reflect the illumination onto other surfaces. Cathedral ceiling spaces are often areas where reflected lighting practices are a useful way to provide general illumination in an otherwise challenging space. By illuminating the ceiling of the space, the light source is hidden from view from below, and the reflected light off the ceiling provides a general level of illumination in the space. This general illumination can then be supplemented with specifically located decorative and accent lights. In nearly every situation, recessed lights in cathedral ceilings are to be avoided at all costs, unless the fixture can be manipulated to re-direct the lamp into an indirect or reflected arrangement. A pull down recessed accent light is one such option; however, give the scale of the space, the actual impact of the light output may be inconsequential, and to use a large enough fixture to create the necessary light impact will be visually distracting in the ceiling plane.
Tiers of Lighting:
The lighting designs that I develop implement the vast palette of options available to a designer to complement a space, its furnishings and overall atmosphere. The first tier of lighting is the most basic path or background illumination needed to traverse or occupy the space. The second tier is the decorative lighting which sets the character and feeling for the space. These decorative lights can be wall, floor or ceiling fixtures. The third and fourth tiers of lights are the task and accent lights.
Depending on the scale and function of a space, I attempt to provide the most basic levels of light through the use of decorative wall and ceiling fixtures and diffused light. There are certain situations where the downward lighting effect of a recessed fixture can be harnessed in a better manner than an exposed decorative fixture, but I generally try and use as few recessed fixtures as possible.
Spaces that have heavy task functions associated with them like kitchens need a combination of path and task lights. In this two tier scenario, I will generally lean towards using decorative fixtures for the general lighting of the space, and then use carefully located task fixtures to light the task surfaces. These task fixtures can also be used to light the space, because they are not necessarily lighting the floor, but elevated surfaces that reflect more light around the space. In some spaces, the scale of the room may require three or four tiers of light. If there is a situation where a decorative fixture is supplemented by task or accent lights, it is because neither fixture type could create the proper lighting effect individually, and need to work in unison. This way the decorative fixture can really be focused on the decorative aspect, and the task fixture on the task at hand. In these cases of combination, the decorative fixture should be the visually dominant feature, even if you are also able to see the task fixtures.
Art & Accent Lighting:
The lighting of artwork or accenting cabinetry, fireplaces, tables or countertops requires the most careful understanding of the priorities and functional requirements of the space and the occupants, as well as the design aesthetic of a space. While a recessed or track head task light may be the most practical solution for artwork accent lighting, the aesthetics of the space may make it the most inappropriate solution. Lighting design is as important to the success of the interior architecture of a space as the architecture itself. In a case where this type of lighting is impractical, the other options need to be explored – indirect/direct picture lights or diffused fixtures. It is also possible to mix the use of picture lights in combination with other forms of accent lighting. The decision that needs to be addressed is whether every art location needs to be accented or not. It is my opinion, that unless you are in an art gallery, not every piece of artwork, cabinetry or fireplace needs to be accented. Often the subtle difference between a highlighted piece of artwork in a primary location, and the secondary locations that are more simply illuminated with diffused general lighting is the better solution. If you choose to light every possible piece of artwork, then there is no hierarchy between the pieces; plus you tend to make swiss cheese out of your ceiling.
A decision needs to be made whether the art or accent lighting will be providing diffused highlights on artwork that may also lap beyond the edges of the artwork, or if the targeted cone of light needs to be focused solely on the piece of artwork. The question of flexibility and ability to change artwork also needs to be addressed. If the project’s criteria demands the accuracy of light aiming, but also high levels of flexibility, then track heads are probably the best solution. The choice of track heads however does not limit your design options to large white fixtures, small delicate and nearly invisible track systems are an incredibly valuable solution for challenging lighting situations. In a formal or informal space where accent lighting’s benefits want to be seen, but not the fixtures themselves, I choose to utilize the most discrete and smallest recessed fixtures possible. Having a smooth uninterrupted ceiling plane is worth the effort over a ceiling with noticeable ceiling trims and large openings. Your eye will be drawn to the surface or artwork that is being lit and not the source of the light, and if you do see the source, the discrete appearance makes you understand that it is a necessary evil that has been made to be as invisible as possible. In certain locations where the smooth ceiling plane is not as critical, or the engineering limitations of the recessed fixture are exceeded and the maximum flexibility and control over the lighting is desired, a short of track heads or the pull down recessed accent lights are the best solution. In spaces with ceiling heights of less than 9 feet, the pull down recessed accent lights are often the best solution.
Under-cabinet or In-cabinet Lighting:
This type of accent lighting is generally used in combination with other lighting methods and is generally the final tier of lighting. In most cases, the most uniform lighting level output is the ultimate goal of the accent lighting, along with a concealed lamp location. Cheaper Under-cabinet lights will have individual lamps that are spaced further apart, which requires each lamp to be brighter, and will create a scalloped lighting effect on the surface being illuminated. The best options are where the lamps or light sources are closely spaced and can be dimmed or brightened in unison, and are as small as possible. It is in this arena that I believe the LED strip or tape lights are so far superior to the older halogen lamp options that I don’t believe it is worth using anything else, when a diffused uniform light is needed. In locations where low profile individual under cabinet lights are practical, then the small ‘puck’ lamps in either halogen or LED are reasonable options. In tertiary locations, high efficiency & output fluorescent fixtures are good solutions.
Do’s and Don’ts:
Don’t be afraid to over light a space – you can always lower the lamps wattage in the fixtures or use a dimmer. What you want to avoid is under lighting the space so that you are wishing it was brighter.
Lamp technology is constantly changing, so choose a universal lamp socket type – and then choose to use different lamps as based on technology and needs. For example, LED lamp and driver technology is changing so fast, you do not want to be stuck with a housing that contains a proprietary LED driver that will shortly become obsolete and inefficient. Instead, invest in the best LED retrofit lamp that is available, and then when it needs to be replaced, you can buy the newest technology.
Pick a recessed fixture manufacturer and housing type that will accommodate different trims, in case you want to make a change in the future. For example, the same housing will accommodate a pull down accent light and a recessed adjustable fixture
Understand the difference in beam spread, lamp color and lamp types, and the best application for each lamp type. To get the right lamp, you may need to shop beyond what is commercially available at Home Depot and Lowes.
You get what you pay for. Cheap specialty lamps, like MR16’s, halogen PAR lamps and LED lamps will not perform or last as well as more expensive lamps. The light output and color rendition of the lamp is also not comparable with ‘specification’ grade lamps.
Don’t let your electrician design your lighting or pick the fixtures you should use. Don’t accept the argument that because something needs to be ordered and has a lead time, it is not worth using. Typically the readily available alternative is not really the same fixture and you will be compromising on some aspect of the original selection whether you realize it or not.
Hanging or ceiling mounted fixtures should not be located so that the bottom of the fixture is lower than 7’-6” unless it is a very small space and 7’’0” is the lowest point on the fixture. The exception is where the fixture is going to be located over a table.
Invest in quality decorative lights – like a piece of furniture or artwork it is always on display and quality does show. Also, you can take pieces with you if you move.
Consider using vintage fixtures as well as new fixtures.
The finish of a fixture does not necessarily need to match the rest of the hardware in a room. Often a fixture will look better in a polished silver or dark bronze finish than in polished brass.
Be fearless in your choices and avoid selecting too small of a fixture.